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66 posts from June 2011

06/30/2011

ATSW: Vintage Plus-Size Patterns

Ask

Knowing how bad I am at answering emails, I figured that an "Ask The Sew Weekly" will get me replying more quickly and (hopefully) helping more than one person. Our inaugural question comes from Jen.

Jen writes:

Love the blog. I've been following for months now as I gear up to sewing my first garment. Now that I can finally sew a straight line, I want to give it a go. But I'm having trouble finding plus sized patterns. Simplicity seems to have the largest selection, but nothing that would work for what I have in mind--a sun dress made from a 1970's vintage sheet (picture large orange, green and white flowers).

Can you suggest any sources for plus sized sewing patterns? Or will I have to learn to re-size patterns fresh out of the gate? Would that be too much for a newbie to take on? Should I put the sheet away, make a few garments based on the available patterns, then learn to re-size?

Thanks so much. I'd really appreciate any advice you could give me.

While the big name pattern manufacturers (Simplicity, Butterick, McCall, Vogue) do sell and market to plus-size sewers, the options are quite limited if you want to find a vintage look (or unique look) for that matter! Thankfully, there are independent businesses out there that have decided to create better options for plus-sizes. New Vintage Lady (Etsy Shop)  has reproduced vintage patterns (mostly from the 1930s and 1940s) for 40" and over busts. 

I suggest abandoning the search for new patterns and truly go vintage. Search the "vintage" category on Etsy for your bust measurement and "pattern." Every seller lists their patterns differently so try different variations including "bust 52," "b52" "52" etc... You should also be searching eBay using the same terms (include vintage). And, depending on the style of the dress, you may be able to go up or down one or two sizes without doing too much resizing. As a beginner sewer, there are a lot of tricks you can do that are short of resizing patterns. Make a muslin and try that thing on constantly while sewing. Since bodies vary, you may realize that your bust needs to be smaller than the skirt (or vice versa). Trial and error is the best way to make a good fit. Just don't feel like you need to be an expert on resizing. You'll be surprised by what a little tweak here and there will do.

Another bit of advice is pick a dress style that is forgiving to fitting issues. The simple dresses from the 1940s with their kimono sleeves and belted waists are very forgiving. Never  underestimate what a belt or sash can do!

Here's an article on vintage plus-size patterns over at BurdaStyle that might be useful as well.

The most important thing is to not feel like your options are limited to the "modern" styles that are out there in the commercial pattern space. You'll see that with a little bit of searching (okay, maybe a little bit of frequent, diligent searching) you should be able to find a pattern that works for you!

Do any of The Sew Weekly readers have more advice? Please share in the comments!

MTL: Mint Floral Border Dress

Sometimes I think it's my responsibility to create a MTL that improves on an original inspiration. For today's MTL, I found an inspiration that happens to be in a drab mint green color that would so not work with many skin tones. The dress is sort of just meh. However, I believe that it's got the right idea with regard to its use of border print. There's potential to this Dorothy Perkins dress that can be unlocked with these slight changes.

Also, I've been dying to use this fabric for a MTL. I love it!Mtl-mint

Original Inspiration

Resources

Tips

  • Use the border print edge for the waistband and neckline, while using the sparser flowers for the bodice.

06/29/2011

Guess Next Week's Theme

You have one hint:

Next-week-theme

Make This Look Archives

Mtl-archive-small Just a reminder: If you want to view past Make This Looks, I've collected them all over here. If you're a Tumblr user, you can follow MTL and it will appear in your dashboard.

Also, if you like a look, be sure to favorite it on Tumblr. It helps me learn what sort of looks people are drawn to and want to see more of.

Also: Want The Sew Weekly to figure out how to make a particular look? Drop us a line with a link to the original garment as well as a little explanation of why you'd like to make the dress (it can be very short).

MTL: Ordinary Happy Moments Dress

Today's MTL comes from Alexandra who wishes for a DIY version of the Ordinary Happy Moments Dress from modcloth.com. I received this request this morning and just had to immediately MTL-ize it when I saw the dress print. I immediately knew that the Liberty of London Tana Lawn Umbel in Red/Grey would be perfect! At $28/yard at Fabric.com, it's not cheap. Two yards at $28 makes the dress a reasonable $56 -- still far cheaper than the $182.99 price tag.

Mtl-ordinary

Original Inspiration

Resources

Tips

  • The original dress from modcloth has buttons running down the front. With the lightweight lawn fabric, I wanted to choose a pattern that stays true to the style but will be easier to construct. If you wish, you could add faux buttons to the bodice for a similar look.
  • Add a belt using the Liberty fabric that ties in the front.
  • If you're into extra work, make a gathered strip of fabric as trim for the bodice (you'll insert it between the dress and the lining before you attach the straps.

06/28/2011

Betsy McCall Paper Dolls

image from tpettit.best.vwh.net From the "my favorite thing on the internet right now" category, high resolution scans of every Betsy McCall paper doll page from McCall's magazine in the 1950s. Although the Betsy McCall page continued into the 1990s and are documented here, I have to say that my favorites are found in the first ten years. 

MTL: Yellow Bow Prom Dress

While this dress is billed as a "prom dress," its simple silhouette is actually quite appropriate for all those non-prom events in your life. 

Mtl-yellow-bow

Original Inspiration

Resources

Tips

  • Use a combination of sleeveless view and bow.
  • Cut the ends of the bow shorter for a look closer to the original inspiration, tack the bow in place for a more perky look.

06/27/2011

Eating My Own Dog Food

image from farm6.static.flickr.com

Lest you think that I'm not gutsy enough to try my own Make This Look suggestions, here's a photo of my fabric that arrived today. I'm planning on making The Night-and-Day Dress and Lemonade at Lunch Dress.

MTL: Frilly Lily Dress

For today's Make This Look, we opted to use gauze instead of polyester. If I were to make this dress and wanted to really make it match the original, I would probably buy just the ivory gauze and then dye the fabric to match the other tiers. Then, I could also dye some eyelet lace the color of the second tier (as well as the ribbon belt matching the bottom tier). But, that's probably much more work than anyone should probably do.

Mtl-lily

Original Inspiration

Resources

Tips

  • Make the top tier the same color as the bodice.
  • To match the original inspiration, cut the bodice neckline straight across

The Fabulous Gordon Gartrelle

image from nested.typepad.com

As Oona mentions in this week's Oona Does It!, it was my idea for her to use the famous Gordon Gartrelle shirt from The Cosby Show as her inspiration. This episode from 1984 (when I was about seven years old) is hugely significant for me since it's really one of my clearest memories of laughing hysterically at a television show. Even when I watch it now, I still laugh at Theo's reaction and the ridiculousness of that shirt. Watch some of the episode here:

 

Oona's take is, of course, fabulous and more importantly wearable. I'm quite glad she skipped the silk shirt route and took it in her own direction!

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