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17 posts from September 2010

09/28/2010

Halloween Costume Compromises

The other day, when I posted a photo of Penelope's first real Halloween costume (and in my opinion the best costume ever), a friend asked whether or not Pen wants to pick out her own costume this year. The short answer: Penelope has a set of criteria that I must meet for her to be willing to wear the costume. Below is an Venn diagram that illustrates our preference and overlap:

Penn-venn
As you can tell, I try to force my child to be a hipster or at least some sort of gay icon. She suggests Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz, I suggest Judy Garland from Summer Stock. She wants to be a "pink pirate" and I try to sell her on 1970s era Steve Martin (with arrow!) Fundamentally, Pen just wants to be something "pretty" and "for a girl." Because parenting is all about compromise, I decide to let her pick (within reason) a costume from the Butterick Halloween pattern catalog. 

Thankfully, she skips over all the trashy sort of costumes that just make me so sad. Her reason: "those are mommy costumes." Not that they're the costumes I would wear, mind you. Instead, "mommy" is the interchangeable word for an adult woman. 

image from butterick.mccall.com Looking through the catalog, Pen sees Snow White and is pretty interested. She continues looking and sees a bat costume that piques her curiousity. And then she's starts frantically pointing at a costume and says "That's the one I want!!! In a little version!!" She has her finger on a Regency-era gown from Butterick. Not only that, she says -- and I'm not making this up -- "it's like that movie...that movie...bedudice!" "Bedudice" is what she calls the 1995 A&E version of Pride and Prejudice with Colin Firth. I don't know how she did it, but she sat through about two hours of the movie on some rainy Sunday a few months back.

It was pretty great to see her so excited over a historical costume. While the dress meets most of her criteria, I also feel like I can create something special and different. And she's happy. She wants her boy BFF to be the boy (Mr. Darcy). As cute as that would be, he's going to be a pirate. 

For her costume, we're skipping the "Mommy version" from Butterick and I'm working with Sense and Sensibility Pattern's Girls' Regency Dress Pattern. I was able to find some white gauzy cotton for the dress and golden yellow pseudo dupioni silk for a jacket. Both pieces of fabric ended up costing me about $1.

Hello, New Readers!

Hello to all the new visitors who discovered The Sew Weekly via Grosgrain! And thanks to Kathleen for considering me one of your favorite new sewing blog reads. Be sure to check out her post for links to other sewing blogs you might be missing. 

Kathleen raises a point about posting frequency -- I wish I could get into the habit of posting more small things. I get hung up on only posting big projects or Weekly Creations when I really should be a bit more casual with my blogging. Anyway, I hope to remedy that.

09/27/2010

The "Fruit Salad" Top

Fruit-salad-promo The Facts
Fabric: Linen from SCRAP - 1 1/4 yards for ~$.50
Pattern: McCall's 5021 - $.25
Year: c. 1976
Notions: none
Time to complete: ~3 hours
First worn: September 2010
Wear again? Yes.

Total Cost: ~$.75

Apologies for the lapse in Weekly Creation posts. Between being burned out from all my Gatsby sewing, planning (and sewing for) Penelope's upcoming 3rd birthday, some Weekly Creation false starts and work, I've needed to take a bit of a mini vacation from updating the blog. But I'm back with some projects that I'm calling 'Preschool Projects" -- basically projects that I start and finish during the time Pen is at preschool for the day (about 3 hours).

The first Preschool Project came about because it's now officially Summer in San Francisco. Like we have all learned to expect (and accept), San Francisco loves its Indian Summer. Faced with not having a single sleeveless shirt, I chose fabric and a pattern that I picked up last Thursday for a complete steal -- a total cost of 75 cents for everything.

I loved this fabric the moment I saw it, though I assumed it would turn into an apron or something a bit more suited for the kitchen. It was such a small amount of fabric -- about 1 1/4 yards (if that) with a 44" selvedge -- that I didn't even think it would be enough to make into a shirt. In fact, I didn't have enough for this shirt pattern and was forced to stitch the back pieces together at the center seam instead of cutting on the fold as the instructions indicated.  In the end, it didn't matter.

What I'm totally amazed about is how perfectly the yoke matches the rest of the shirt. Let me tell you that I can not take any credit for that feat. It was a complete and total accident. I'm a fast sewer. I'm a creative sewer. But I'm also a mess of a sewer and if I tried to deliberately match the yoke, I would have failed miserably. But for some reason the sewing gods were looking out for me today and that piece just wanted to be cut correctly.

The pattern is, uncharacteristic for me, from the 1970s. The sleeveless view is just so adorable and I intend to tackle it again and add some embroidery.

Fruittop

09/22/2010

Guest Interview: Libett on her Gatsby Dress

Our Lady of GatsbyConcluding my Gatsby posts for this year is an interview with my friend, Libett, a dear friend of mine who I've known for twenty years(!). Libett has the most marvelous style and made her dress in the most daring of ways -- she, along with her teacher, drafted a pattern from a catalog inspiration. Here's what she had to say.

SW: How long have you been sewing?
Libett: I've been hemming my own pants and doing other such alterations for about 12 years.  In high school I began purchasing a lot of clothing at second-hand stores that never fit quite right.  My mother is an excellent seamstress and she would help me hem pants and take in tops at the waist that didn't fit.

She eventually taught me how to do it so that I could do my own alterations.  I started taking sewing classes about 6 months ago, so that is really when I started making things from scratch. 

SW: What inspired you to make your own dress this year? 
Libett:
 Part of my inspiration for making my own dress this year is Mena.  I was quite impressed with the dresses she made last year for the event.  For the Gatsby picnic last year, I purchased my dress at the Alameda Flea Market for $10 and altered it because it was too small.  I ended up cutting some of the bottom of my dress to add material around the bust and waist.  This year I wanted something a little more special, more me.  And nothing is more me than a red dress.  

I was also inspired by my sewing teacher.  I have been taking a sewing class with my sisters, mother and a couple of friends and our teacher is phenomenal.  I cannot say enough about her.  Her name is Martha Macias, is from Mexico, and lives in Petaluma and about twice a month, she teaches us dress drafting and cutting.   She studied to be a seamstress in Mexico and is very experienced.  She's made many dresses, including bridesmaid and wedding dresses.  I could not have done any of this without both Martha and my mother Raquel.

Libett-inspiration SW: How did you find your patttern?  
Libett: I didn't use a pattern.  I found the perfect dress in a book I had purchased through Amazon.com called Everyday Fashions of the Thirties As Pictured in Sears Catalogs Stella Blum (Editor) and when I was looking through it, I came across a dress from 1935 that I absolutely loved.  I took the picture of my dress to my teacher Martha, as well as all of the materials I though I would need,  and we began.  After discussing some changes that I wanted to make to the dress in the picture, we started taking my measurements, using my Scientific System (I think it's also know as a tailor's curved ruler), made the pattern, and then started cutting the fabric.  

SW: How long did it take you to make your dress?  
Libett: The dress did take a long time to complete.  I would say about 15 hours total spread out over about a month because I do not have time to sew on a daily basis. 

SW: What was the total cost? 
Libett: I bought the bulk of my materials at a store called Fabrics 'R Us in San Jose.  I spent about $22 there and then bought a belt kit online.  My total was about $33.

Systema SW: What was the hardest part?
Libett: 
Everything was hard, as it was the first time I've ever made a dress from scratch.  But I had help doing many things.  Drafting the pattern is hard too, but all it really takes is practice.  The collar was really difficult as well, but Martha took care of that.  The scariest thing for me was when I was using the serger and cut a piece of my lining.  I thought I had cut the chiffon, but luckily the blade didn't cut through the chiffon, the top layer.

SW: What would you do differently next year?  
Libett: Next year, I would start my dress about 6 months in advance so that I could do the entire thing myself.  Due to the fact that I didn't start until a month before Gatsby, I was in a frantic rush and needed so much help and guidance.  But we were able to finish it on time and I'm very happy with how it turned out.

SW: What was your favorite aspect of the dress?
Libett: The fit!  There is nothing like the feeling of something that is tailor-made to your measurements!  It was worth all of the hard work!

 

09/16/2010

Guest Interview: Krissy on her Gatsby Dress

As I've mentioned in my previous Gatsby post, two of my friends made their own dresses this year. I asked them a few questions for The Sew Weekly about the Gatsby gown-making process. First up is Krissy, who has been my sewing buddy this past year. She focuses on truly "green" sewing by almost exclusively sewing with materials that are vintage, second-hand or recycled. I joke that I can make a dress in the time it takes her to make a dart, but she truly embraces the art of sewing and dots her "i's", crosses her "t's" and lines up her stripes.

The Facts
Fabric: Linen - 5 yards from Scrap - $2
Pattern: VPPL T7746 - borrowed
Notions: White buttons - $.10, buckle: borrowed
Year: c. 1934
Time to complete: About 10 hours

Total Cost: ~$2.10!

SW: How long have you been sewing? What inspired you to make your own dress this year?
Krissy: I first learned to sew when I was in high school and I sewed several pieces back then, but they were all really simple. I only knew how to work with elastic or zippers.  I started sewing again earlier this year for a few reasons: I made a vow to not buy any new clothes this year (all my clothes have to be thrifted or sewn myself), and I got inspired by hanging out with Mena who sews all the time.  Once I discovered the joy of searching for vintage fabric and patterns, I was hooked.  I also really love the sustainable aspect of reusing old fabric and notions.  And I finally taught myself how to make buttonholes.

I wanted to make my own dress this year because it's difficult and expensive to find a vintage dress from the '30s.  Plus we had the nautical theme to achieve, so sewing my own frock made the most sense.
How did you find your patttern? (I know the answer, but you can just say you made it from sight)I left my Gatsby preparation until the last minute so I relied on borrowing patterns from Mena.  The hat pattern and dress pattern are from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library.

SW: How long did it take you to make your dress?
Krissy: I sew very slowly and don't really keep track of time.  I'd guess it took me 10 hours to make this dress, but it would go much more quickly for anyone else.  I enjoy the process of sewing and get a little lost in it.  I made the dress over three or four days.

SW: What was the total cost?
Krissy: I scored about five yards of this printed linen for less than $2.  The red linen for the hat was maybe $0.25.  I found the buttons in a button box I bought at the Alameda Antiques Fair for a few dollars.  I borrowed the belt buckle and patterns and already had the nylons, garter belt and shoes.  The leather gloves I wore cost $7, bringing the total for the whole outfit to about $10.

SW: What was the hardest part?
Krissy: The dress pattern is very simple and easy to make.  I took in the sides a bit, but I wish I knew something about pattern altering because it could have fit better.  Finding buttons was difficult because it called for 12 buttons of more than an inch in diameter that looked era-appropriate.  These shell buttons were at the bottom of my button stash and were the best match, but I only had five of them.  So I just sewed the rest of the bottom of the dress together.

SW: What would you do differently next year?
Krissy: I would start a little earlier in my preparation and try to find some nice accessories.  I'm thinking of buying some era-appropriate shoes.  It was a little bit of a bummer to have a hat and dress from the right era only to punctuate them with sad, anachronistic shoes.


SW: What was your favorite aspect of the dress?
Krissy: The dress was very comfortable to wear in the nice warm weather, and it was surprisingly fun to wear a bold red print.

Krissy

SW: One more thing. Tell us about the hat. 
Krissy: That $@^&ing hat.  I am no milliner.  I kept rereading the instructions and trying to wrap my head around what they were saying, but I don't really think in 3-D.  It was so frustrating.  The inside of the hat is completely unfinished and I tacked the bow on in the three minutes before I left my house.  I almost gave up, but I'm glad I didn't, because when else could I wear a ridiculous red topper like this?  

09/15/2010

Our Day at the Gatsby Summer Afternoon 2010

image from farm5.static.flickr.com Given that the Gatsby Summer Afternoon was Sunday and I've been silent until today, you can surmise that my energy level was depleted significantly. As you may recall, the theme of our picnic for this year was "Gatsby by the Sea." We've already decided that the theme of next year will be "a picnic that doesn't require china, glassware, silverware and tables." This was the second year that we created a massive large picnic -- while last year's was tiring to put together and take down, this one kicked our collective butts. All our hard work was rewarded with an "Honorable Mention" for large picnic ribbon, however.

Continue reading "Our Day at the Gatsby Summer Afternoon 2010" »

09/10/2010

SSS: 9/10

Dressed for work. SSS: 9/10

09/08/2010

The "Brocades in Vegas" Dresses

Brocades-promo The Facts
Fabric: Brocade from Fabric.com ~$5.85 for 3 yards (the $1.95 section)
Pattern: Simplicity 6028 - $.05
Year: c. 1965
Notions: none
Time to complete: ~3.5 hours
First worn: September 2010
Wear again? The perfect Vegas or cocktail dress.

Total Cost: ~$5.90

Fabric: Brocade from Fabric.com ~$5.85 for 3 yards (the $1.95 section)
Pattern: Simplicity 6219 - $.05
Year: c. 1965
Notions: Vintage zipper - $.005
Time to complete: 3 hours
First worn: September 2010
Wear again: The perfect Vegas or cocktail dress.

Total Cost: ~$5.90 

I like to think of these two dresses as sisters -- sisters with a raspy smoker's voice. They've seen Vegas, they've played and lost and now am happy to be home. As you can see from The Facts above, they're almost completely identical. Both are brocades from patterns from 1965. They're made with $1.95 per yard fabric found on Fabric.com and each took about 3 1/2 hours to complete. 

Despite all the sewing I still need to do for Gatsby, my husband and I and another couple decided to spend two nights in Vegas this past weekend. On Monday night (we were leaving Thursday afternoon), I put aside anything from the 1930s and traveled to the future -- 1965. There's nothing like a brocade dress to really feel like 1960s Vegas. 

A side note, completely unrelated to sewing. I'm going to sound like a grandmother right now, but seriously, do young women visiting Vegas have any respectability or class nowadays? Yes, I know the whole "whatever happened in Vegas stays in Vegas" thing is about partying hard and creating a persona possibly different from your real life self, but seriously, I have never seen such trashy outfits in my entire life! No seriously. Picture the skimpiest micro-mini you can possibly find. And now take it off! There were at least a dozen or two dozen women we saw that went out at night in nothing but their bras and panties and stilettos. And these weren't prostitutes -- these were girls having a night out with their BFFs. And here I am walking around like an extra from Mad Men. I'm usually self-conscious about how I look, but I can honestly say that I felt happy and pretty in my brocade burkas. 

Okay, back to these dresses. While they were both fairly easy to put together, the scalloped neckline on #6028 was a bit complicated since I didn't use any interfacing to help form the scallops. Dress #6219 is basically made from two front pieces and two back pieces with some crazy dart action in the front bodice area. When I constructed it based on the directions, I had these little nipple buds that I haven't seen since I was eleven. So the dart, was readjusted and placed below my breasts. Totally wrong interms of sewing, I know. However, on me, the darts blended in with the expected waistline.

I don't have high quality photos of the dresses, but here are a few camera phone snaps to show you the dresses on a human body.

Vegas1
Vegas1
Vegas1

Self-Stitched-September: 9/8/10

Elaine
Feeling very Elaine Benes today.

SSS: 9/07

Playing it casual at home. SSS: 9/07
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